How to Make

How to make a cutting board

How to make a cutting board

Before we get started on today’s build, there are a few things you need to do on your cutting boards. The first thing you’ll want to know is what type of wood to use for how to make a cutting board.

In my case, I am going to use this nut. Some other options are maple, cherry, it basically just needs to be a hardwood with a tight grain pattern. And also, you have to decide what kind of cutting board you are going to make. Are you going to make a front grain cutting board? Is it going to be an edge grain or an end grain?

And I can quickly explain the differences between the three. A face fiber cutting board is when the face of the board is on top.

Advantages about how to make a cutting board

Some of the advantages are that the face is usually the most decorative part of the board, so it will look good. And these can be pretty easy to do if you’re working with wood that’s the same width. On the other hand, the face will definitely show your knife marks more easily than an edge or end grain board.

Also, it doesn’t give much, so you can dull your knives quickly. An edge grain cutting board is when the edge of the board is facing up. This is what we will do today. Some advantages of an edge grain cutting board are that they are sturdy and less likely to warp.

You can control the width of the table overall

Some downsides are that they will still show knife marks and they can also dull your knives over time. Lastly, an edge grain cutting board is when you crosscut an edge grain cutting board and line it up so that the end of the board is facing up.

End grain boards are best for your knife and are less likely to show as many knife marks compared to a face or edge grain board. Some of the downsides are that they take a while to do because sanding the final grain takes forever and they can split or crack if not glued properly.

So, for starters, we’re going to take this piece of walnut and we’re going to cut it on the miter saw.

I’ll probably go somewhere between 15-16 inches or so, not quite sure yet. But once we have those pieces, we’re going to clean up each of the edges with my jointer jig on the table saw, cut them into strips, and then probably send them through the planer.

Now that I have a clean edge on each of these boards

I’m going to take that edge and compare it to the guide on my table saw and then start cutting them into strips. So, the width of each of these strips will represent the total height of the cutting board when complete.

I’m going for an inch and 3/4 knowing I’ll be taking it to the planer later on and that will remove some of the thickness as well.

So, let’s go ahead and take some of these boards and start ripping them into smaller pieces. So, I was really hoping that all of these boards would be flat enough that I could glue them together and be done with it, but as I’m laying them down, there are a lot of gaps here and I want to take care of them now.

Because if I just force it with glue and clamps, I assume there’s going to be a problem in the future, it might break, it might split, so I definitely don’t want to do that.

We’re going to get out the jointer, run them all the way through and then run them through the planer and then they should be ready to glue.

 Planer and jointer worked

These boards are nice and flat. For the glue, I’m going to use Timebound III, it’s waterproof. I’ve never had a problem with this, so that’s what we’ll be using. And then for clamping, you just want to make sure you’re applying equal clamping pressure all the way and just enough glue so you can see how it’s tightening from the top and bottom.

I’m going to put two clamps on the bottom, two clamps on the top. You don’t want to tighten it too much; you just want to make sure it’s tight enough to get the glue out or else you could end up with warping in the board later on.

We don’t want that. So, let’s go ahead and hit this baby! Well, it’s a little later in the day and I’m going to wait until tomorrow morning before. I drop this off and run it through the planer but I was so excited to come here and take a look and see what it looks like and mmm it looks brilliant.

Few things we need to do next

There are a few things we need to do next and the first is to take this to the table saw and clean up the edges; I’ll use my cross-section template for that. After that, we will take it to the CNC and engrave it, based on the customer’s request.

And once that’s done, we’ll add a chamfer along all sides just to clean up. Chip away at any of the sharp edges. All right, now we’re going to sand: I’m going to start with 120 grit and work my way up to 220 grits. When I’m done with that, I’m going to spray all of this with water to lift up those little…

Grain fiber, little wood fiber things to be able to sand it again. That way, it will become super soft and you won’t be in for a pleasant surprise the first time you go to wash this thing. So that part is very important, spray it on, sand it back, just remembers that.

 I need a… you know

So, it’s been about 45 minutes and it’s still pretty wet so. I’m going to let it dry overnight and tomorrow we can come back and sand it again down to 220 grit and add the finish.

All right, time to put a little end to this thing. I’m going to use mineral oil. This little bottle is made by Howard. I’ll leave a link to this, as well as all the other tools I used in this video. In the description below if you’re interested.

He says you have to season a new board to make at least 3 or 4 layers. You put on a layer, wait 20 minutes, wipe off the excess, rinse and repeat.

And I like to finish things off using this other conditioner. It has mineral oil and some waxes, the latter I will do. Also, if you’re making this as a gift for someone, I highly recommend picking up a bottle of this as well, You can read to Designer lighting for the home.

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